Aphids have appeared, what should I do? Dangerous garden pests are aphids. Chemicals to control aphids

In this short article we will answer the question that our readers most often ask regarding pests - why do aphids appear in indoor seedlings? The question is quite interesting, since even plants that have never been exposed to the outside environment during their entire growing season, growing indoors, at some point in time become victims of these small green or white pests. In order not to repeat what aphids are and how they are dangerous, you can familiarize yourself with our materials on green and white, or root aphids.

In this material we will list the reasons - how and why aphids appear on indoor plants.

Where do aphids come from in an apartment?

In fact, even if the plant is constantly indoors, there are many ways for aphids to enter. It just seems that no insects are entering the room. They penetrate quite successfully. So, the main ways for aphids to enter an apartment.

They fly in to visit

During the warm season, the aphid life cycle continues continuously. In one season, up to several generations of these insects can develop. When food shortages begin to occur in some natural habitat, female aphids acquire wings and fly off in search of new sources of food. These insects fly, to put it mildly, unimportantly, so the higher the number of floors in the room, the less chance you have of getting an aphid infestation in your flower pots. However, in the case of wind, which helps the females rise higher and fly further, everything becomes significantly more complicated.

The insects use the green color of plants and the smell of their evaporated essential oils as a guide to their destination. It is by this that insects determine whether this plant is suitable for them or not. Houseplants are kept in a locked space, which accumulates aromatic substances in significantly higher concentrations, which begin to actively escape into the external environment when the window is open, thereby creating a kind of “planting corridor” for females. Moreover, due to the small size of the insect, no mosquito repellent usually helps.

After the female has flown in and found a plant, she “lands” on it and begins a vigorous activity of laying eggs, doing this mainly on the underside of the leaves. For white or root aphids, the ovipositing process begins closer to the soil line of the plant's stem. After 10-12 days, insects begin to hatch en masse from the eggs, which very quickly reach the sexually mature stage.

As a rule, the development of aphids at home is faster and more active, since there are no natural predators of these insects.

Plant infection

Many lovers of home flowers often take their pets out into the fresh air, where they can receive the necessary volume of solar and air masses that is certainly beneficial for them. It is at this moment that the plant can be found by the very females who are looking for new territories for their colonies. The infection process occurs much faster in the private sector and summer cottages, where the concentration of female flyers is much higher, and the surrounding plants can be infested with pests.

Driving into the apartment

If there is a whole mini-gallery of indoor flowers in a room, then all of them automatically fall into the risk zone if a new tenant appears among them. This especially applies to new plants that arrived from large commercial nurseries, since it is in production conditions that aphids are most often the norm, where they try to get rid of them almost all year round.

There may be another way for root aphids - they can easily be obtained in the form of a free bonus with soil that was brought from the street or purchased commercially. Therefore, if possible, it is better not to buy soil and fertilizers of dubious production; it is better to trust your own garden - at least it will not be so offensive.

We have listed the main ways in which aphids appear on indoor plants. In conclusion, I would like to note the main methods of prevention that will be relevant to those who fanatically take care of their green pets:

If the weather outside is sunny but windy, it is better not to open the windows. If this is still necessary, then it is better to remove all plants from the windowsills in the shade, or cover them with a cloth. The smaller the mosquito net mesh, the better.
When taking plants outside, it is recommended to cover them with a special material that allows sunlight and air to pass through, but will deter pests.
It is better to treat soil brought from open ground with boiling water. This should be done outdoors.

Any plants that appear in an apartment for the first time must be quarantined in an isolated room, for example, a room where there are no “old” flowers at all, for a period of at least one month. During this period, aphids will definitely show themselves. It must be remembered that the symptoms of white aphids are similar to those of other pests or resemble soil nutrient deficiency.

To differentiate root aphid damage in time, you can use special adhesive strips around the plant stem closer to the soil. The presence of white or reddish insects on the strip will indicate the pest of white aphids.

We hope that our information was useful. If our readers have any questions, you can ask them in the comments to this article. Don't infect your indoor flowers!

Her favorite plants include the following:

tuberous begonia;
nasturtium;
mallow;
cosmos;
roses.

Among vegetable, greenhouse and melon crops:

cucumbers (first of all);
tomatoes;

potato;
salad;
cabbage;
eggplant;
Bell pepper;
watermelon melon.

Among garden crops:

Apple tree;
cherry;
plum;
viburnum, red and black currants.

Why are aphids dangerous to plants?

With their proboscis, insects pierce the skin of young plants and suck out the juices, weakening the plants, preventing them from developing, bearing fruit and blooming.

They cause chlorosis, that is, a disease in which the plant cannot synthesize chlorophyll in the required quantities - the external signs of the disease are yellowed and wilted leaves. In addition, it is a carrier of viral infections. Yeast and mold fungi actively multiply on the sugary secretions of aphids (honeydew).

Methods for controlling aphids

The fight against this pest must be comprehensive. Simple preventive measures will help, if not completely destroy the pest population, then significantly reduce their number and prevent reproduction.

Prevention of aphids

In the fall, after harvesting, perennial weeds, which often harbor colonies of aphids, are weeded out and treated with herbicides.

All plant residues and garbage are removed from greenhouses and greenhouses and burned. The greenhouse is fumigated with sulfur bombs. It is better to remove the top 3-5 cm layer of soil; in small greenhouses the soil must be completely changed every 3-5 years.

In early spring, before planting seedlings, the greenhouse and garden tools should be treated with bleach or caustic soda. Before planting plants in open ground, it is necessary to inspect the area for weeds and get rid of them.

Like others, aphids thrive in high humidity and high temperatures. A good drainage system installed on the site will protect the garden not only from aphids, but also from another scourge of gardeners - slugs.

Plants that are especially “appetizing” for aphids should be planted away from vegetable beds and greenhouses.

Plants are less affected by aphids if you do not overfeed them with nitrogen fertilizers. It is better to feed the plants with ash or potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

Inspect your plantings regularly for insect infestations. Severely affected branches should be cut off and discarded. Sometimes it is enough to tear off or pinch off the affected tip to prevent further infection.

Mechanical means

The easiest way to get rid of aphids is to simply pick them up with your hands.

The second way is to water the plants with a strong stream of water from a hose. It is preferable to do this in the morning so that the plants have time to dry out during the day.

Organic (biological) products

The most famous aphid fighter is ladybug. Its larva can destroy up to 70 aphids per day. In total, during its life, a cow can destroy up to 700-800 harmful insects.

It is possible to attract cows to the garden by planting aromatic herbs - parsley, dill, coriander, tansy. They also love chamomile.

In order for the cows to overwinter in the garden and begin to breed numerous offspring in the spring, you need to provide them with good conditions for hibernation - in late autumn, leave an armful of dry leaves, bark or stones somewhere in a secluded corner.

Another enemy of aphids is the lacewing or fleurberry. She loves to eat aphids so much that her larva is called the “aphid lion.” They are attracted to dandelions, yarrows and other umbrella plants.

For wintering of lacewings, special houses are installed in September, inside which dry leaves, bark and straw are placed. To attract insects there, the houses are treated with special baits - attractors.

Birds are dangerous enemies- tits, warblers, wrens, robins, sparrows - will happily eat aphids and feed their chicks with them, you just need to arrange drinking bowls and feeders for birds in your garden.

And here black garden ants feed on honeydew- sweet secretions of aphids, therefore they jealously protect their “herd” and spread aphids to plants, looking for new “pastures” for them.

Therefore, we must also fight with. To do this, lightly dig up the anthill and pour boiling water over it. The nest can be stirred up and covered with fluff lime or tobacco chips.

Aphids are repelled by nettle, herbs - sage, thyme, mint, rosemary, lavender, as well as green manure (plants that increase soil fertility) - lupine, sweet clover, clover, rapeseed, rapeseed, oilseed radish. Due to the high content of natural pyrethrins (insecticides), Dalmatian chamomile also repels aphids.

Folk remedies to combat aphids

They include spraying affected plants with self-prepared solutions. Here are some recipes:

A solution based on potato tops: pour 2 kg of chopped tops into a bucket of warm water, leave for 3-4 hours, strain.
Yarrow infusion: 200 g of fresh herb, pour 2 liters of boiling water, leave for 1 hour. Then add 8 liters of water.
Liquid soap solution: 2 teaspoons of liquid soap per 2 glasses of water. You can add 1 cup of vegetable oil.
Decoction of onion peels: half a bucket of onion peels for 10 liters of boiling water. Leave for a day, strain and spray.
Ash-based solution: pour 1 kg of ash into 8 liters of boiling water, leave covered for 2 days, strain.
Just spray the plants with the cheapest vodka from a spray bottle.
Water with Coca-Cola - for 1 hour of water 5 hours of soda (regular, not diet). It is necessary to dilute it with water, since in its pure form the carbonated drink can burn the tender leaves of young plants.

In order for the products to have the greatest effect, plants should be sprayed in dry, windless weather.

Chemicals to combat aphids

If none of the above helps, heavy artillery is used - insecticides. Preventative treatment should be done in early spring, before buds open. Many insecticides are toxic to bees and are therefore not used during the flowering period.

Mild organic products based on pyrethrins cause the least harm to the environment, plants, and beneficial insects, but precisely because of their mild action they will have to be used more often.

Among such drugs are “Inta-vir”, “Iskra”, “Akarin”, “Decis”, “Fury”. They quickly decompose and are not addictive.

Among the powerful drugs that have been tested for decades are dichlorvos in aerosol cans, karbofos, as well as their analogs - “Rogor” and “Fozolon”.

Remember that these chemicals are highly toxic and must be used strictly according to the instructions.

Be sure to use gloves, protective clothing and a respirator. Medicines should be kept out of the reach of children and pets.

Remember that strong, well-groomed, healthy trees, flowers, shrubs and vegetable crops are much less susceptible to the danger of being “infected” with aphids. Therefore, the main measure that needs to be taken to combat this pest is to carefully and regularly care for the plants.

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Aphids often plague gardeners and gardeners. It sucks the juice from the leaves and thereby destroys the plantings. The pest does not only appear in areas. It also attacks domestic flowers. To effectively fight it, you should know where aphids come from on plants.

How aphids appear in areas

Many people encounter an “invader” in their summer cottages and gardens. As soon as warm weather sets in, young leaves and shoots on trees and plantings are attacked. It seems like she appears out of nowhere.

But infection occurs in two ways:

She's being torn apart.
New individuals hatch from eggs overwintering in tree trunks.

During the cold season, ants carry aphids and their eggs from plants to their nest so that they do not die from frost and icy wind. With the onset of warm days, foragers place their “pets” on young leaves and begin grazing, jealously guarding the “food supply” from ladybugs. Aphids can appear on any plants and seedlings.

Interesting!
The little workers feed on honeydew, a lice secreted by plant louses. They tickle the aphid's abdomen with their antennae, and the aphid gives them a drop of the sweet drink.

If there are too many insatiable pests on a tree or shrub, then worker ants begin to spread them to other fruit crops and weeds. So, thanks to the efforts of the garden species, aphids appear on plants.

But the insect is capable of independently taking care of the continuation of its kind. The eggs hatch into females that reproduce new offspring. In mid-summer, winged females and males appear from the next clutch. They fly to other plants and lay eggs in the bark of trees and shrubs, which must survive the winter.

With the onset of warmth, new individuals emerge from the clutches. The cycle repeats itself again.

Those who suffer most from aphid infestations are:

(including , and );

How aphids appear on house flowers

Pests manage to spread throughout. This happens in the warm season, when flower growers send their “pets” to the balcony - and they are attacked by winged individuals.

On a note!
But this is not the only way the pest gets into apartments. Aphids are formed in the following ways:
flies through open windows and doors;
brought by people on their clothes and shoes;
gets into the house with other plants, bouquets of flowers.

All purchased potted flowers are processed or kept in quarantine for 2-3 weeks, and wildflower bouquets collected in a field or forest are placed away from indoor plants.
Aphids reproduce quickly and spread throughout plants. It creeps from weeds to trees, bushes and fruit crops. Foragers often help her with this. To protect the garden, you need to fight not only aphids, but also.

Aphids can have a detrimental effect on a wide variety of plants, trees and shrubs; the main harm they cause to them is as follows:

Ways to combat aphids

Insecticides

The first way to combat aphids, which will be considered, is the use of special toxic substances, since this technique is the most effective, gives a guaranteed result and provides protection against this type of pest.

All types of modern insecticides designed to combat aphids can be divided into two types of preparations:

Contact agents that infect insects upon contact or entry into the digestive or respiratory system.
Systemic agents that are absorbed into plants, infecting aphids, which begin to eat them.

To achieve a positive result, insecticides must be correctly selected; below is a brief overview of the most effective options:

"Aktara" is a moderately dangerous biological insecticide that is always popular among many gardeners and flower growers due to its complex effect on different types of insects. The drug can not only destroy aphids, but also provide reliable protection against various types of mites, moths and beetles. It is not recommended to use in the immediate vicinity of apiaries, as it poses a fatal threat to bees. Available in the form of an emulsion, which must be diluted with water; complete destruction of pests usually occurs within 2-3 days. You can purchase the product at a price of 20-25 rubles per ampoule, the volume of which is 4 ml. An analogue of this insecticide is the drug “Agravertin”.
Spark "Double Effect" is an insecticide that affects aphids through direct contact or ingestion. The main active ingredients included in the composition are cypermethrin and permethrin. These are very common substances that have a detrimental effect on most types of insects, so treated plants receive comprehensive protection. The drug causes a number of disruptions in the central nervous system of pests, which consistently lead to paralysis, the inability to perform basic actions to maintain life, and death. This product is available in the form of tablets for dilution in water, the cost of one package is about 40 rubles.
"Commander" is a systemic insecticide that can be used for soil treatment or spraying of affected trees and plants. The main active ingredient is imidacloprid, a common and effective toxic substance that is characterized by a high level of toxicity for many insects. “Commander” is produced in the form of a concentrate intended for subsequent dilution in water. Provides protection against the reappearance of insects for 1-1.5 months after treatment; it is dangerous for bees, therefore it is not allowed to use the insecticide near apiaries. The approximate cost is about 50-70 rubles per 10 ml ampoule.
"Fitoverm" is an insecticide of biological origin, the effect is achieved due to the special properties of the soil fungus, on the basis of which the drug acts. The product can be used both for treating indoor plants and for use in the agricultural industry. “Fitoverm” is capable of destroying not only aphids, but also various types of mites, in which it first causes paralysis and then death. The approximate price of a 50 ml bottle is 170 rubles.
"Fufanon" is an insecticide whose composition is based on various organic phosphorus compounds; it is one of the main analogues of "Karbofos". This drug can be used against most flying and crawling pests. You can buy one 6.5 ml ampoule for 30 rubles; it will yield about 5-6 liters of active substance. However, it is not recommended to treat fruit crops less than 20 days before harvest.
"Tanrek" is a well-known insecticide, the main active ingredient of which is imidacloprid. It allows not only to effectively destroy aphids, but also provides high-quality protection against the reappearance of insects. Its duration can range from several weeks to a month, depending on the amount of precipitation. The cost of a 1.5 ml ampoule is about 30 rubles.

Folk remedies

There are also a number of folk remedies that allow you to resist aphids, many of them have still not lost their popularity and are actively used by gardeners.

Some of the options for such control of these pests are discussed below:

Prepare a container with 10 liters of ordinary water, in which you need to dilute about 300 grams. laundry soap. In some cases, the use of liquid soap is allowed, but then its volume will need to be halved. The resulting solution is used to treat the affected plants.
Grate about 100 gr. tar soap, which is diluted in 10 liters of water to prepare a solution that is used to treat affected crops.
Add about 300 grams of wood ash to a container with 10 liters of water, bring the liquid to a boil and maintain it in this form for about half an hour. To increase the effectiveness of the product, it is recommended to add a small amount of soap to it immediately before treatment.
About 200 grams of garlic must be crushed as much as possible so that it takes the form of a pulp, which is mixed with a liter of plain water. This mixture must be placed in a dark place and left for 4-5 days. After this, from every 25 ml of infusion you can get about 10 liters of the active treatment agent, but be sure to follow the mentioned proportions so as not to cause burns to the plants.
Approximately 400 grams of horse sorrel roots are poured with water, the mixture is brought to a boil. After this, it needs to be allowed to cool and in just three hours the product will be ready for use against aphids.
Take 100 grams of peels from any citrus fruit and soak in a liter of warm, but not hot water. The product should sit in a dark place for three days, after which it can be used to treat any plants.
Finely chop a kilogram of potato tops, but to prepare the product, they must be completely healthy and not susceptible to any pests. The tops are filled with 10 liters of water, after which the liquid settles for three hours. For cooking, you can also use dried potato tops, but in this case their quantity is reduced by 1.5-2 times.
Take 200 grams of tobacco leaves and pour 5 liters of water, then let it sit for 3-4 days. After the specified period has expired, add another 5 liters of water, after which the product will need to be strained to get rid of unnecessary grounds remaining from the used foliage.

other methods

There are several other alternative methods to get rid of aphids, some of them are given below:

Mechanical methods, which consist of destroying insects by hand when detected or washing them off plants with water from a hose. These options are less effective because they only remove detected individuals and do not provide any protection against re-emergence.
Planting nettles or herbs in the garden. This attracts the attention of many birds whose diet includes aphids, as well as beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, which are natural enemies of aphids.
At the moment, the larvae of many beneficial insects, such as lacewings, can be purchased in stores. They are released in the garden, after which they grow into adults and begin to reproduce. This method can significantly reduce the pest population, although in most cases their number is not enough to completely destroy large colonies.
Growing Dalmatian chamomile, garlic or onions can repel aphids from a certain area, since this insect does not tolerate these plant species.

Features of deliverance in the garden

Below are some measures that can help get rid of aphids in the garden:

Distinguishing between different types of plants. You can plant options that are attractive to aphids at a considerable distance from those crops that require additional protection from pests. The presence of begonias, nasturtiums or soporific poppy on the site will most likely divert the attention of these insects from other plants. Of the trees, pests prefer to settle on viburnum or linden; if the majority of the population is concentrated on these species, then it will be much easier to find and destroy it.
Sparrows, tits, kinglets, robins and some other breeds of small birds very often hunt aphids, since they are ideal food for chicks. If there are large populations, birds themselves can pay attention to the area and help in destroying pests, but sometimes they need to be additionally attracted, for example, by installing feeders. However, it must be taken into account that many of them feed on tree fruits, so they can both help and harm.
Fertilizers, oh Especially the nitrogen type should be used with extreme caution, since feeding plants with them can lead to a significant spread of aphids, whose attention will be attracted by the abundance of young and fresh greenery.

Features of getting rid of indoor plants

Aphids are not only found in gardens or summer cottages, but also often become targets for their attacks.

In this case, the process of getting rid of these pests will have a number of individual characteristics, which are described below:

Often the main means of control is to treat the leaves with soapy water or any type of vegetable oil. This technique does not provide any protection, but allows you to effectively get rid of existing individuals, since the liquid with the addition of these components acquires a viscous structure, envelops the bodies of insects and disrupts the respiratory processes in their body.
Treatment with alcohol also shows good results, but only the pure medical variety is suitable for this procedure. Such alcohol evaporates very quickly, and it is virtually impossible to cause burns. However, this practice is not recommended for plants with very sensitive and thin foliage.
In most cases, all types of insecticides that are used against aphids and in the garden are suitable; Aktara is the most popular. This is often the most effective option for exterminating insects, which will additionally create protection against their reappearance.

Signs of aphid damage to plants

As already mentioned, aphids are very small in size and prefer to be on the back side of leaves, so it is not always possible to notice these insects in a timely manner.

However, there are a number of signs that indicate their presence:

The presence of small white waste, which is old skin shed by aphids.
The presence of sticky liquid on leaves or buds is a specific secretion secreted by pests.
Lack of fruit development or opening of existing buds.
Underdeveloped foliage, they have a poor appearance and curl inward.

Aphid diet

The diet of aphids is very diverse; there are varieties of insects that prefer to settle and eat leaves and shoots exclusively of cherries, cucumbers or other crops. However, in the absence of their usual food, these insects are able to switch their attention to other plants.

The most common is the green aphid; it most often attacks:

All types of fruit trees or shrubs.
Chrysanthemums, garden roses.
Most non-poisonous houseplants.

You can also very often find black aphids; the basis of their diet most often consists of:

Various types of wildflowers, primarily cornflowers.
Legumes.

Prevention of occurrence

In order not to waste time and energy on removing aphids, it is recommended to take a number of measures in advance that can help prevent the appearance of these pests:

Exterminate ants in the garden and destroy anthills, since these types of insects exist in symbiosis. Ants very often protect aphids, hide them in their shelters and transfer individual individuals from one plant to another.
Before planting, always carefully inspect the seedlings to immediately eliminate already infected plants and prevent pests from spreading throughout the area.
Sprinkle the paths between the beds and the area around the flowerbeds with wood shavings, since such an environment will attract earwigs, which destroy aphids.
Plant onions on the plot, garlic, lavender, thyme and other types of plants that repel aphids.
Carry out chemical treatment of plants with various preparations, which can provide a protective effect.

Aphids are a real scourge for gardeners and gardeners. The invasion of these microscopic pests often takes you by surprise, and what to do about it often remains a real mystery. Unfortunately, it occurs both in a closed film greenhouse and in open ground. They destroy plants by sucking the juices from them, but in addition to this, they become a carrier of all kinds of cucumbers and other important vegetable crops. How to get rid of aphids in the garden forever worries many summer residents; there are a lot of remedies, both folk and new, and we will talk about them today in our article.

Understanding the reasons for the appearance of these pests in the countryside will help the gardener avoid their occurrence in the future, as well as develop a strategy to combat existing colonies. Unfortunately, there are a huge number of species of aphids, the common feature is their small size, transparent body, ellipsoidal body, and they also have excellent vision.

Methods for controlling aphids in the garden:

Getting rid of such a pest is carried out in different ways, there are folk gentle remedies, and there are also chemical ones, they are used when a critical mass of aphids has already accumulated in the garden, and it is no longer possible to simply get rid of them.

Chemicals:

Insecticides - destroy not only the pest itself, but also their eggs, although they also have an effect on the plant. The majority of such drugs are on the market. Here is a list of the most popular and effective:

“Inta-vir” - tablets and powders, in addition to aphids, they destroy leaf rollers, cherry flies, thrips, and codling moths. The product must be dissolved in water, the proportions are indicated on the package.
“Aktara” is a fairly powerful remedy, and at the same time safe for the plant, it is used to treat the leaves of fruit trees.
“Koragen” - “Koragen” works for three weeks, after 24 hours it begins to act. The advantage is its neutral effect on pollinators and worms.
"Prestige" is one of the most popular drugs; it has fungicidal and insecticidal properties.
"Decis Pro" - this remedy is well suited for combating. We dilute it in the proportions of half a gram per ten liters of water. It lasts for about a month.

Ants are carriers of aphids

It is best to apply insecticides until the buds open, precisely in early spring.

Biological agents:

“Actofit” - as a result of its action, the pest loses the ability to feed, its death occurs after a few days.
"Jaguar" - destroys aphids on cereal crops.
“Fitoverm” - it is used both in the garden and indoors; you can spray plants indoors.
"Fufanon" is an organophosphate agent.
“Entobacterin” - the maximum effect begins at a temperature of +30C, on the eighth day after treatment.

It is necessary to treat plants with such fungicides in the morning or evening, the weather should be calm and not cloudy. Treatment with chemical agents is carried out for the last time at least two weeks before harvesting; for biological agents - a week. Sometimes aphids can develop immunity to a particular product, so it is recommended to change it from time to time.

Video on the topic:

How to fight aphids in the garden using folk remedies:

Ladybug is a gardener's faithful assistant

When the number of insects in the area is not critical, then it can be used for spraying with tincture of tobacco, medicinal chamomile, potatoes, garlic, horse sorrel, tomato decoction, sulfur alder, tansy and many others. It is best to collect such herbs during the flowering period, but the most effective folk remedy is tincture of ash. Recipe:

Wood ash (300 grams), sift and boil it for 20 minutes.
Let the broth stand and filter, then you need to add ten liters of water.
On the day before treatment, you need to add 50 grams of laundry soap to the solution.

Second recipe based on hot pepper:

One kilo of dry pepper, pour ten liters of liquid, and leave for 48 hours.
If you want to prepare a decoction, then keep the same proportions, but boil the liquid along with the pepper for about half an hour, and then leave for two days. When spraying, dilute with water in proportions of 1 to 6. Spray the garden regularly until the insect completely disappears. Maintain a one week interval between treatments.

Fighting ants on the site.

Often it is ants who are the culprits when aphids appear on your site, so by destroying their colony you will immediately correct two important problems that in the future may threaten your harvest. In order for the ants to leave their homes, pour a large amount of boiling water over the anthill; it can be replaced with kerosene or tincture of tops.

Traps:

There are many such baits. To protect young trees from ants that carry aphids, they are protected with special sticky belts. They become firmly lodged in them and will not be able to move closer to the tree.

Lures:

You can prepare special baits to attract ants. After consuming such baits, the ant dies within a matter of hours.

Boiling water - 2 tablespoons, 1 tablespoon sugar. One third teaspoon of borax, after the liquid has cooled add one teaspoon of honey. Change the bait every 7 days.
40% sugar + 10% honey + 5% borax + 45% water. Pour the liquid into test tubes and place them around the area where insects most often migrate.
Minced meat - 2 tablespoons, half a teaspoon of ground borax. We lay it out near the anthill.

You can also use chemicals to combat it. The most commonly used drugs are: “Muracid”, “Ant”, “Anteater” and “Grom-2”. But they are used as a last resort if all other methods have failed.

Fighting aphids without chemicals

Unfortunately, this type of control is effective only in the case of a small outbreak of this pest in your garden. Otherwise, it will not be able to give you tangible results. Sometimes it is enough just to destroy the black leaves, and others on which you see colonies of cherry aphids. You can use a powerful stream of water aimed at insect-infested leaves. To deal with plum and cherry trees, just light a pile of manure in the garden, which will fumigate all the trees for several hours; sprinkle tobacco leaves on top of the pile.

Prevention:

Strengthen the plant's immune system. To do this, you can water the crops with nettle decoction. Carry out timely feeding, but do not overdo it; the disease comes to them both from a lack of nutrients and from its excess. Experienced summer residents also recommend sprinkling ash from the stove under the plants.
The tops of fattening shoots should be cut off in time; larvae and eggs very often spend the winter in such places. Don't forget to whiten your trees in the fall.
Coriander, basil, and mustard emit a smell that repels pests; planting such herbs under trees is very effective. But lavender is planted near the rose. Nasturtium is planted in the tree trunk of a cherry tree; this plant will attract aphids from the cherry to itself.

Attracting natural enemies of aphids to the site:

The most terrible enemy of aphids is the ladybug.

Method of attraction to the site:

Planting cereals such as oats, or barley, wheat.
Aphids settle on it, and ladybugs react to this and flock to this small area.
At a certain point, the grass is mowed and burned, and the hungry cows move to all the other plants on your site and destroy the pest with lightning speed; in just a few days your garden will be completely healthy and protected.

Also enemies of the insect are: wasps, sparrows, tits, ground beetles.

Methods of combating aphids, their effectiveness and energy consumption table:

https://youtu.be/d3Rqc3tWT1Q

The fight against aphids is carried out in different ways, depending primarily on the degree of damage to the area, but still give preference to environmental methods. Chemicals are used only in cases of severe infestation and when all other steps have failed. Act wisely and remember that chemistry can destroy not only your enemies but also plants, be careful and always carry out prevention, then you will have no need to know the methods of control.