How to treat geranium with Bordeaux mixture. Common geranium diseases and effective methods to combat them. Why do the buds dry out?

Diseases of pelargonium (geranium) - control and treatment, symptoms and photos. Why do geraniums turn yellow and wilt? Geranium diseases can ruin your efforts to care for these beautiful flowers. As a result of the action of pathogens, pelargonium turns yellow and fades, losing its flowers or leaves.

Diseases of pelargonium (geranium)

In order not to be transferred to our garden or balcony, it is necessary to obtain newly acquired plants from a reliable source. When purchasing them, if possible, check to see if they have any pests or signs of disease.

Particularly dangerous for geraniums is exposure to excessive amounts of moisture in the soil and air, which contributes to the development of fungal diseases. Therefore, when planting geraniums, maintain a distance between plants of about 25 cm, take care of the soil pH at 6-7. It is worth placing small stones or expanded clay at the bottom of the pot, which will serve as drainage. This will make it easier to get rid of excess water and prevent rotting of the pelargonium roots. If possible, pots of geraniums should be placed under a roof before the rains arrive. Also, avoid exposing plants to high temperatures as this will burn the leaves.

Proper fertilization of plants is also important. In particular, nitrogen fertilizer promotes the development of fungal diseases. Therefore, it is worth using a special fertilizer for pelargonium or flowering plants with a reduced dose of nitrogen. Use fertilizers rich in phosphorus and potassium compounds that support abundant flowering. Following these rules will help you avoid geranium disease, yellowing and drying of pelargonium leaves.

Pelargonium: fungal diseases

One of the most common diseases of pelargonium is gray mold. It appears when the humidity in the air and ground is too high. Frequent sprinkling and abundant watering are the ideal environment for the development of this pelargonium disease.

Gray mold shows up as browning of the leaves, watery spots, and a powdery gray coating. The spots appear from the edge of the leaf and are narrow to the center of the leaf blade. The pathogen quickly spreads to other plants through spores.

To prevent the appearance of gray mold in pelargonium, first of all, the plant needs proper growing conditions. Once symptoms of the disease are detected, the infected parts of the plant are removed and then sprayed with organic preparations: Biosept Active, Agricolle spray for fungal diseases or Teldor 500 SC fungicide.

Pelargonium diseases photos, treatment, means and methods of control

Geriatric fusarium manifests itself in the same way. The disease begins at the base of the plant. The leaves turn yellow and watery spots appear. Over time, the plant becomes smaller and dies. Fungicides against this disease: Topsin M 500 SC and Dithane NeoTec 75 WG.

Pelvisone is also often attacked by powdery mildew and powdery mildew. Untreated powdery mildew symptoms lead to complete degradation of the plant. High temperature and humidity contribute to these diseases. This is why they usually appear in the summer, with heavy rainfall.

Pelargonium powdery mildew appears as a white coating on the leaves, both upper and lower, which later turns brown. The recommended product for controlling powdery mildew on pelargonium is Topsin M 500SC or Discus 500WG.

Powdery mold of pelargonium appears only on the underside of the leaves, in the form of a white coating. The drugs recommended for the control of downy mildew are: Miedzan 50WP, Dithane NeoTec 75WG.

A disease that is easily recognized is geranium rust. It is characterized by yellow, round spots on the leaves. Brown spots of rust spores are often visible in the stains. Leaves turn brown and fall off. The disease is favored by high humidity and too dense planting. Remove infected parts of the plant. Fungicides recommended for spraying: Amistar 250 SC, Domark 100EC.

Diseases of geraniums sooner or later, if growing conditions are not met, become problem No. 1 in indoor floriculture and require timely treatment in order to save the flower crop. After all, the modest, delightful geranium is one of the most beloved plants to grow at home.

Having bright flowers and spectacular leaves, unpretentious in care, it is popular in garden plots and in landscape design, looks original in pots, hanging baskets, and is good as a ground cover crop.

Geraniums grown at home

Geranium diseases and their treatment are often discussed even by experienced gardeners. Falling suddenly on fragile leaves and stems, they cause a lot of trouble in growing a decorative flower with medicinal properties, appreciated by ancient physicians.

In the Middle Ages, it was believed that geranium, in addition to healing wounds, stopping bleeding, and curing stomach diseases, was capable of healing fractures.

Traditional medicine uses infusions from the aerial parts of the plant to dissolve salts for urolithiasis and to treat gout. Decoctions from the roots are used in the treatment of skin diseases, ulcers, purulent wounds in the form of lotions, baths and washes. Also, geranium, whose pests and diseases sometimes significantly spoil the life of the plant, is able to normalize blood pressure, has calming properties and stimulates the nervous system.

If provided correctly, it will delight with active growth and abundantly variegated flowering. Its long-term absence may indicate infection with a certain disease, which is important to identify in a timely manner and take the necessary measures to cure the plant.

Fungal infection

A huge danger to geraniums is the Botrytis fungus, which infects the plant anywhere, at any age and at any time of the year. A disease develops, the signs of which are spots with gray fluff, with increased air and soil humidity.

The plant can also become infected when faded petals of inflorescences fall onto the leaves or when planting cuttings from infected geraniums. Gradually increasing in size, the spots merge and lead to a large annular or V-shaped lesion. In the stem part, the Botrytis fungus looks somewhat different: in the form of large brown areas, which, actively spreading, cause the death of shoots. Covered with a fluffy gray mass, they fall off ahead of time.

Measures to prevent problems

Preventive measures to prevent home geranium disease:

timely weeding of the soil, removal of weeds and wilted plants;
avoiding stagnation of water in the soil;
watering in the morning;
planting a plant without signs of disease.

When planting geraniums in groups, the distance between plants should be optimal for ventilation.

Having discovered a fungal disease, the diseased parts should be removed, and the geranium itself should be treated with fungicidal preparations.

Diseases of geranium (with photo)

When water stagnates in the soil, the root system of geraniums can become affected by rot, causing yellowing and drooping of the above-ground parts of the plant.

The disease gradually spreads to the stems and leaves, the indoor flower becomes brown, turning black at the base of the plant; a greyish-white, spider-web-like coating is observed at the roots. Root rot leads to decomposition of the root system, severe wetting of the plant and its death.

You can save an indoor flower by improving the drainage in the pot and replacing the soil with more breathable and loose soil. Also, during the treatment period, you should avoid feeding the plant with preparations containing nitrogen. If a disease is detected, it is recommended to treat the geranium with fungicidal preparations, removing the previously affected parts of the plant.

Geranium: bacterial leaf diseases

Bacterial wilt is caused by pathogens identified by brown V-shaped spots on the undersides of leaves, distinct dark veins, and dried out edges. During its development, the infection causes general lethargy of the plant, blackening and deformation of the stems with the appearance of dry rot, and the death of branches.

Young plants taken from an infected mother specimen are not recommended for planting, as they are not able to take root and, starting from the base, slowly rot.

To prevent indoor geranium disease, you should:

regularly remove weeds, wilted shoots and periodically loosen the soil in order to saturate it with oxygen;
replace the soil with a well-ventilated composition;
Do not use cuttings of a diseased plant for propagation;
avoid overhead watering;
supply moisture in the morning, before 11 o’clock;
When planting, leave gaps between geraniums for good air circulation.

If there is rust on the leaves

Diseases of geraniums can be caused by fungi, including rust. They are spread by sucking insects, diseased plants or contaminated soil. Rust appears as yellow spots on the top of the leaf and spore-filled pads on the underside of the leaf blade, which release spores when opened. Serious damage by this disease entails massive yellowing and complete loss of leaves.

The appearance of powdery mildew can be determined by a rapidly spreading coating on the upper side of the leaf blade.

The first mandatory measure is to isolate the flower from other plants. For minor lesions, it is recommended to remove the diseased parts of the affected specimen. If the infection is in an advanced form, you will have to apply fungicide treatment: in solution or powder. This drug kills fungal spores, preventing their spread. It is also necessary to treat neighboring flowers with a “Kratan” or “Acrex” suspension. A 0.5% solution of Bordeaux mixture is effective in the fight against fungus.

Preventive measures include ensuring the indoor culture has good drainage, regular ventilation, watering in the morning, and a soil composition that allows water and air to pass well.

Tomato spotted wilt

Geranium stunting, ring spots, and purple-brown pitted lesions on stems, leaves, and petioles are often caused by tomato spotted wilt. Specific depressions are noticeable on the above-ground parts of the plant. If the above signs of leaf disease are detected, the flower must be destroyed. Prevention of geranium disease consists of timely removal and control of insects - potential carriers of such an infection.

Leaf spot

The Alternaria fungus causes Alternaria blight, recognizable by small, blistering-like spots on the undersides of leaves. As the geranium disease progresses, the spots mature, become sunken, and acquire a brown color with yellow inclusions resembling scattered salt.

Cercospora blight, another form of leaf spot, appears as sunken, pale areas that later turn gray. Spores form, and dark areas appear in the infected parts of the plant, raised in the center.

Edema, or dropsy

In cloudy, cool weather, the surface of the leaf may become covered with chlorotic spots, which subsequently turn into water-filled bubbles. This disease is called edema (or dropsy) and is further manifested by yellowing and falling leaves. The infection can also develop in winter, with insufficient lighting and waterlogging of the soil.

Yellowing of plant leaves can be caused by a lack or excess of moisture. Lack of lighting causes yellowing and falling of the lower row of leaves.

It can be affected by nematodes - large nodes on the roots of plants that cause stunting and death. The infected plant should be disposed of.

Growing conditions

To prevent geranium diseases, it is necessary to provide appropriate care. Comfortable growing temperature - normal room temperature; in winter - from +10 to +15 o C. Geranium loves an abundance of light and even tolerates some exposure to sunlight on the crown. Lack of lighting will cause smaller leaves on the plant and poor flowering. Watering is needed abundantly and regularly, without stagnation of water.

Spraying the plant is not necessary, and sometimes even harmful. Geranium does not like water getting on its leaves. It is also worth knowing that it does not accept fresh organic fertilizers; During active growth, it is better to feed it with preparations for flowering plants 2 times a month.

Geranium (or pelargonium) is a delight to the eye with bright colors, as well as an unusually useful and unpretentious houseplant. However, even geranium can suffer from various diseases, despite its unpretentiousness. It can be treated very quickly, so there is no need to worry about it, but for simple treatment it is important to see the problem in time. In this article we will look at what diseases and causes can damage this wonderful plant.

Causes of geranium diseases

In the presence of there is a dark gray coating on the leaves , this is a sign of gray mold or rot. To prevent this, you need to water the plant less and remove all damaged leaves from the stem as quickly as possible. Spraying geraniums with an antifungal drug will help renew them.
Powdery mildew is a fungal disease. The sign is covering the plant with a white coating . This is facilitated by increased temperature and humidity in the room where this plant is located. A good solution could be a solution of copper sulfate, ammonium nitrate, soda ash or a 5% solution prepared from water and laundry soap.
Root rot It is very difficult to cure, the geranium dies. Therefore, pay attention to watering. A large amount of moisture is very harmful to geraniums.
A small white insect, called or, settles on the leaves below and begins to reproduce very quickly. They feed on geranium juice. From this leaves turn yellow and fall off . Spraying required.
Flower mold affects flowers. Its appearance can be determined by how brown mold forms on the stem . Mold must be removed in time, otherwise the flowers will quickly fade and the stems will begin to collapse.
Blackness on the stem This is a manifestation of the black leg. The stems turn black, the leaves curl, begin to turn yellow and fall off. As a result, the geranium dies. When geraniums are transplanted, they should be planted in disinfected pots. Water only with clean water, not from barrels.
When spotted leaves , this is a signal that you need to eliminate humidity and ventilate the room more often.
Curly virus. The leaves of the plant acquire brown spots and begin to curl. In this case, the bush should be completely destroyed so that other plants do not become infected.

Why do geranium leaves dry out?

How to care for geraniums so that they bloom?

The reasons why geraniums do not bloom can be different:

When the plant is not fed, there is no flowering.
When planting geraniums in a large pot, the root system begins to develop, but does not begin to bloom. In this case, first plant the flower in a small pot. As soon as it grows, transplant it into a larger one.
Watering the plant has a great influence on flowering. During this period it should be plentiful.
In the spring, pruning is required so that a couple of shoots remain. Geraniums should not be placed in backwater or heavily sunlit areas. Find a neutral place.

Why do the leaves of indoor geraniums turn yellow?

Here are the main reasons for this:

A very cramped pot, the plant does not have enough space. Transplanting into a large pot will immediately eliminate this problem.
It is important to properly care for geraniums in the winter season. During this period, it may be subject to drafts and strong soil moisture. Never place it near a radiator.
Remember that drying out harms the plant. Therefore, drainage should be done and the soil should be loosened more often.
As soon as the fungus appears, immediately treat the entire plant.
Plant growth may be stunted if you overfeed it with nitrogen fertilizer. It is better to feed it with potash fertilizer.

What to do if geranium leaves turn yellow?

In order for the plant to grow normally, one should not forget about adding organic and mineral fertilizers to the soil. This must be done in strict accordance with the dosage, otherwise it is impossible to prevent yellowing of the leaves. Fertilizer containing phosphate and potassium is very important.

Water with iodine is useful for geraniums. Pay special attention to geraniums in winter. At this time, yellow leaves most often appear on this plant. Therefore, you need to water 1-2 times a week; you do not need to add fertilizers. The room temperature should not be lower than 12 degrees. At the beginning of March, the plant falls off, so you need to remove dead leaves, shaping the desired size and shape of the flower.

With proper care of geraniums in winter, from March to December, they will enjoy their beautiful flowering and there will be no yellow leaves.

Why do geranium leaves turn white?

It also happens that geranium begins to produce not even yellow, but white leaves. Moreover, the old green leaves do not lose their green color.
Why do geranium leaves turn white: the reason Why do geranium leaves turn white? As flower growers have noticed, this happens in the hot season, when pelargonium stands on the windowsill, in the very sun and in stagnant hot air. As a rule, as the heat subsides, geraniums begin to produce normal green leaves again.

There is no need to panic when geraniums have white leaves: this is not chlorosis or chlorosis, but simply a reaction of the plant to conditions that are unsuitable for it. Therefore, all we can do in this case is to try to make life easier for the plant during the summer heat (for example, move the plant to another windowsill, where the sun is not so hot).

Pests of geranium flowers

Ticks. When they appear on the leaves from below, yellow specks appear. They then develop dry or discolored areas. This occurs due to dryness or high air temperature. The plant needs to be treated with a soapy solution to get rid of it.
Fungus gnat larvae. They attack the stems. They have a black head and size is 7 mm. The plant begins to rot and dies. In soil with humus, these archers quickly develop and penetrate the stems. They most often damage seedlings under three weeks of age. The plant needs to be treated with special preparations.
. On the underside of the leaf they form in the form of growths and begin to deform the young plant. As a result, the leaves and their growing point become bent. Spots appear on the flower, and the leaves turn brown. Thrips reproduce in the stamens of flowers. To remove this pest, you need to have green sticky traps or treat with an insecticide. This is very important for a young plant. Treatment should be repeated every five days.
. It causes the leaves to turn yellow and curl into a tube. If the infestation is severe, there is a sticky discharge from the aphids. It is urgent to cut off these leaves with a colony of insects and lubricate the plant with soap and water. Destroy severe lesions with special solutions.
Caterpillars. To destroy them, you need to inspect the plant every evening. If caterpillar feces are present, apply biological insecticides.
. These 2-3 mm insects are usually found on the underside of the leaf. You need to set yellow traps and treat the geranium with preparations based on potassium soap.

By applying our tips in caring for geranium, this plant will always delight you with its beautiful appearance and beautiful flower buds. We wish you success in growing this wonderful flower.

Watch a video about diseases and pests of geranium:

Suberization. This is a non-communicable disease. Brown corky growths appear on the bottom of the leaves. Attention: thrips leave a similar picture of damage.
Control and prevention measures: The causes of the disease are the following: high air humidity with constantly damp roots; strong changes in air humidity and nutrient content in the soil; as well as attacks by thrips, spider mites or heteroclaw mites.

Viruses. Viral diseases of pelargonium cause discoloration of leaves, yellowing of leaf veins, browning of leaves, variegation, and slow growth.
Control and prevention measures: Sick plants are removed. Before cutting the cuttings and placing pelargoniums for the winter, suspicious plants are discarded. The virus is most often transmitted through cuttings.

Stem and leaf bacteriosis. On sunny days, individual leaves wither, although the earthen ball is sufficiently moist. Then these leaves turn yellow and the entire shoot dies. Its base is affected by black rot. Another symptom occurs less frequently and mainly on older plants: oily spots appear on the leaves, which then turn golden brown.
Control and prevention measures: Sick plants are removed immediately. Do not use them for cuttings. For the remaining plants, the drugs Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B, Gamair, Binoram, Planriz, Fitolavin are used for prevention with caution Bordeaux mixture, Abiga-Pik, Albit.

Bacteriosis. Fleshy, light-colored growths form on the stem, often below ground level. They have almost no effect on the health of the plant.
Control and prevention measures: The growths are removed. Do not take cuttings from affected plants. Do not use the substrate or containers underneath it for growing pelargoniums. For the remaining plants, the drugs Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B, Gamair, Binoram, Planriz, Fitolavin are used for prevention with caution Bordeaux mixture, Abiga-Pik, Albit.

Root and stem rot. With stem rot, the root collar of seedlings and cuttings becomes green-cotton-black, becomes wet and rots. With root rot, the leaves become pale green and dull. They turn yellow and wither. The roots are soft and rotten. The root sheath separates from the core, leaving the roots looking frayed. Zoospores of the fungus spread only in a humid environment.
Control and prevention measures: The spread of the disease is facilitated by low soil acidity. The plant is kept as dry as possible, watered rarely but abundantly. Use coarse-grained substrates. Spray the plants with biological preparations Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B, Fitolavin, Baktofit, Gamair, Pseudobacterin-2, Binoram, Planriz, Sternifag, with caution Fundazol. When planting and replanting, use the biological preparation Gliokladin, and treat the soil with the preparation Healthy Earth.

Verticillium wilt. The disease most often affects large-flowered pelargoniums. First, the leaves wither, sometimes only halves or sectors. The leaves dry out and remain hanging on the stem. Browned vessels are visible on the cut of the stem. The roots are not damaged.
Control and prevention measures: Sick plants are destroyed along with the substrate and containers. For the remaining plants, Alirin-B and Gamair are used for prevention, and for soil cultivation - Zdorovaya Soil.

Leaf spotting. Dark green round spots appear on the leaves, subsequently turning brown, with a dark, slightly raised edge and an olive-brown coating of sporangia in the center. The disease most often affects hybrids of zonal pelargonium and large-flowered pelargonium, especially in rainy years in the garden or with high humidity in the greenhouse.
Control and prevention measures: Diseased leaves are torn off, air humidity is reduced, and foliage is sprayed less frequently. In case of severe damage, you can spray with Fitosporin-M, Gamair, Chistotsvet, Rorval, Baymat, Bordeaux mixture and Abiga-Peak (with caution, there may be burns).

Gray rot. Affected leaves and peduncles become covered with brown, weeping spots of rot. At high air humidity, a gray coating of sporangia is formed. The disease is more common in warm, damp and cloudy weather.
Control and prevention measures: Old leaves and other dying plant tissues are removed. During the winter months, plants are kept dry. In the greenhouse, air humidity is reduced and the night temperature is maintained above the dew point. Among the chemicals, the drugs Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B, Gamair, Planriz, Glyokladin, Sternifag, Skor, Chistotsvet, Topaz, Fundazol, Rovral, Ronilan, Euparen.

Pelargonium zonal rust. Light spots appear on the leaves on top, and brown pads arranged in circles appear on the bottom. Fungal spores spread through the air. They need water to germinate.
Control and prevention measures: Diseased leaves are promptly removed. The plant is kept as dry as possible, watered rarely but abundantly. Use coarse-grained substrates. The spores remain in the soil for 2 years and if new spores are not allowed to form and the leaves are picked off in a timely manner, complete recovery occurs. You can slow down the development of the disease by spraying plants with Fitosporin-M, Fundazol, Topaz, Strobi, Bordeaux mixture.

Multi-clawed mites. The leaves at the tops of the shoots do not grow, become coarse and often curl downward. The petioles and underside of the leaves are covered with brown scabs. The appearance of glassy-white mites (0.3 mm long) is promoted by heat and dampness.
Control and prevention measures: Queen cells should be regularly inspected for pests. For mild damage, you can treat the plants with soap or mineral oil. For severe cases, treat with Bitoxibacillin, Fitoverm, Akarin, Vertimek, Molniya, Fufanon, Kemifos, Karbofos-500, Ditox, Bi-58, Karate Zeon, Kung Fu, Antiklesch, Iskra-M, Actellik, Omite, Tiovit Jet, Zolon, etc.

Ticks. Yellowish specks appear on the leaves, later - extensive discolored and dried areas. Small (0.2-0.5 mm) mites live on the underside of leaves. The appearance of mites is favored by high temperatures and dry air.
Control and prevention measures: For mild damage, you can treat the plants with soap or mineral oil. For severe cases, treat with Bitoxibacillin, Fitoverm, Akarin, Vertimek, Molniya, Fufanon, Kemifos, Karbofos-500, Ditox, Bi-58, Karate Zeon, Kung Fu, Antiklesch, Iskra-M, Actellik, Omite, Tiovit Jet, Zolon, etc.

Fungus gnat larvae. The cuttings do not take root and die from rot at the base of the stem. Visible in the stems are glassy-white larvae, about 7 mm in length, with a black head. They live in damp, humus-rich soil and from there they penetrate plant stems. Most often, seedlings and cuttings aged two to three weeks suffer from them.
Control and prevention measures: Immediately after emergence or planting, treat seedlings and cuttings with Antonem-F, Muhoed, Grom-2, Aktara, Aktellik.

Thrips. Corky growths appear on the underside of the leaves. Young leaves are deformed, the growing point is curved. Flowers with spots; the petals turn brown at the edges. In flowers, in the area of stamens, thrips actively reproduce.
Control and prevention measures: For prevention, sticky blue traps are hung in greenhouses. This is especially important for young plants, since even single insects can damage them. To completely eradicate thrips, early and repeated application of insecticides is necessary. Spray with the preparations Aktara, Akarin, Actellik, Biotlin, Confidor, Fufanon, Fitoverm, Tanrek, Iskra, Vertimek, Bi-58, Zubr, Komandor, Tsvetolyuks, Alatar, Parachute, Doctor, etc. After 4-5 days, the treatment is repeated, since insecticides do not affect all stages of development of these insects.

Aphid. The leaves curl, turn yellow, and when severely infested, sticky secretions of aphids are visible on them.
Control and prevention measures: Single colonies of aphids are cut off along with the leaves or washed off with soap and water; in case of severe damage, they are treated with Antitlin, Tobacco dust, Actellik, Fitoverm, Akarin, Aktara, Decis, Tanrek, Iskra, Zubr, Biotlin, Komandor, etc.

Caterpillars. Gnaws appear on the leaves, and black feces of caterpillars are often visible.
Control and prevention measures: Plants are periodically inspected, especially in the evenings, and caterpillars are collected. Biological insecticides: Lepidocid, Bitoxibacillin, Bicol; chemical: Bi-58 Novy, Fufanon, Zolon, Aktellik, Fitoverm, Arrivo, Tzipi, Tsiper and others.

Whitefly. On the lower surface of the leaves (most often in Pelargonium grandiflora) adult white-winged insects 2-3 mm in diameter and their wingless pale yellow larvae are visible. In the tobacco whitefly, the wings are folded over the abdomen in a “house”, while in the greenhouse whitefly they are folded flatter. With severe damage, the leaves turn yellow. There is a sticky discharge visible on them.
Control and prevention measures: Sticky yellow traps are hung in mass plantings. Treatment is carried out with preparations based on potassium soap or with preparations such as Aktara, Actellik, Iskra, Inta-Vir, Karbofos, Fufanon, Tanrek, Zubr, Biotlin, etc.

It is no secret that in most cases the reason why the leaves of indoor plants dry out and turn yellow is due to improper care.

If the situation is not corrected, this may ultimately lead to the complete death of the plant. Therefore, you should study the typical shortcomings in growing geraniums at home.

Mistakes when planting and replanting plants

Sometimes the reason why geranium leaves acquire an unhealthy yellow color and begin to gradually die is an incorrectly selected pot. If its size is too small for the root system (especially in plants whose age is several years old), then pelargonium does not have enough capacity for development. But you should not choose a pot that is too large: in this case, the geranium will begin to actively grow roots to the detriment of green mass and flowering, which is also undesirable.

When planting a plant, it is important to ensure good drainage. Expanded clay purchased at a flower shop or hardware department of a supermarket is ideal. If there is insufficient drainage, excess moisture will not leave the soil. Proper air circulation will also be impaired. In some cases, the yellow color of the leaves is caused by damage to the roots due to careless transplantation.

Lack of minerals

The supply of minerals found in the soil is a resource that quickly runs out. And immediately after transplanting into new soil, the elements are not always contained in the required quantities. But geranium spends a lot of energy on flowering and growth. Therefore, there is a need for additional and regular addition of mineral complexes to the soil through root feeding. The need for them increases during the growing season, when pelargonium is actively growing and blooming. A lack of minerals often causes the leaves to turn yellow. But It is important to remember that an excess of elements will also negatively affect the condition of the plant.

Improper care at home

As already said, geranium is a fairly unpretentious home flower, feeling good in the room. But to prevent diseases and yellow leaves from appearing, you must try to provide it with suitable conditions in which the plant will feel comfortable.

Pelargonium loves light, but direct sunlight is harmful to its leaves. Low and excessive air humidity in the room can cause great damage to the appearance of the plant. Its optimal figure is 50–60%. Geranium dries in cool drafts. In autumn and winter, it is advisable to keep the pot away from heating devices in the apartment - the heat from them will cause the leaves to turn yellow and dry out. It is better to take it out to a cool glazed balcony if the temperature in the loggia remains around 12 °C, reducing watering to once a week.

Another common mistake is related to watering. Its frequency should depend on the time of year: in warm months, geraniums need to be watered more often. You should also pay attention to the quality of the water. If it is too hard, it will lead to excess calcium in the soil. The leaves will react to this and turn yellow. To make water suitable for irrigation, it must be allowed to settle for several days; add a couple of drops of lemon juice or a small pinch of citric acid.

What to do if geranium leaves turn yellow

The plant can be saved if the necessary measures are taken in time. First of all you should:

Make sure the pot is suitable for geraniums and has good drainage. If necessary, you need to transplant it into a container that meets all the criteria as soon as possible. If the geranium blooms, then all flower stalks must first be carefully cut off.
The pot should be placed on the sunny side. If the plant is exposed to direct rays, you will need to create temporary artificial shading. It is important that pelargonium does not stand in a draft.
Avoid exposure of geranium to heating devices.
If possible, maintain an acceptable temperature during the cold season. In other months there are no strict recommendations in this regard.
If the air is too dry, you can place a container of water or moistened expanded clay next to the pot. Florists do not recommend spraying.
Adjust watering and fertilizing of the plant. It must receive sufficient amounts of water and minerals. But overflow and excess of elements are also destructive.

When caring for pelargonium in an apartment, it is best to adhere to the “golden mean” rule. If you correct the mistakes described above in time, the flower will not disappear and will quickly recover, delighting you with carved green leaves and abundant flowering.

Pelargonium: other diseases and care errors

Geranium leaves indicate the health of the entire plant. This is a kind of indicator that can indicate possible diseases of pelargonium, incorrect watering and fertilizing patterns. There are some specific “symptoms” that can tell you a lot.

The edges of geranium leaves dry out

If the edges of the leaf blades of a geranium begin to dry, there may be two reasons for this condition:

The plant does not receive enough moisture. This drying usually occurs if the pot is in a very hot place. It is better to move the geranium to partial shade.
The root system of pelargonium was damaged. You can try to replant the plant by treating the roots with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. But to be on the safe side, it is better to cut and root the cuttings in water or soil so as not to lose the variety.

Leaves curl inward

If the leaves of pelargonium begin to curl inward, this may be evidence of an imbalance of mineral substances. This condition is caused by a lack of nitrogen or excess potassium. Nitrogen is needed in large quantities only during the growth stages of the plant, Therefore, the leaves of young plants often curl. To prevent deficiency or oversaturation of elements, it is recommended to use ready-made complex mineral fertilizers for flowering plants: they contain substances in the required proportions.

Often the cause of leaves curled at the edges is pests. Most often - spider mites. To detect it, you need to examine the leaf blades of pelargonium from all sides. It is advisable to use a magnifying glass. Ticks can be easily treated with chemicals - insecticides. Several treatments may be required.

Viral infection is much more dangerous. With it, the inflorescences take on a clumsy, ugly shape. In this case, it is unlikely that it will be possible to save the geranium. It should be thrown out of the house to prevent the infection from spreading to other indoor plants.

Pelargonium withers in a pot

If a geranium withers in a pot and slowly dies, then the reason lies in root rot. This disease can easily destroy a plant. Such pelargonium is usually thrown away, cutting off healthy cuttings for further rooting. The instruments must then be disinfected. To avoid root rot, you should try not to flood the plant and ensure good drainage.

Geranium leaves turn black

Geranium leaves turn black if not cared for properly. Dry spots are associated with insufficient moisture, while “wet” spots that are slippery to the touch, on the contrary, are associated with excess moisture. Sometimes mealybugs are the cause of black spots. A plant infected with them begins to shed its leaves. Sooty fungi form at the sites where scale insects live, causing a black coating to appear. This disease is treated with insecticides.

White plaque on the plant

The leaves are getting smaller

Pelargonium leaves inevitably become smaller with age. If the plant is too old, then its freshest shoots should be cut off for further rooting. Other causes of small leaves in pelargonium may be:

nitrogen starvation (it is necessary to additionally apply the substance in the form of foliar feeding);
low indoor air humidity;
high air temperature.

Pelargonium leaves turn yellow and dry: preventive measures

It is much easier to prevent yellowing of leaves than to cure an already diseased plant. To avoid having to fight to save your favorite geranium, you should:

Replant the pelargonium in a suitable pot in a timely manner.
Find a place for it, closed from drafts, with enough diffused light.
Water as the earthen ball dries out.
Apply mineral complex fertilizers suitable for flowering plants in a timely manner. The application rates and schedule are indicated in the instructions for the product. During the flowering period, it is recommended to do root feeding twice a month. Organic fertilizers will also be useful.
In winter, you need to try to keep the geranium cool.
Regularly inspect the plant for infection by pests, bacteria, fungi and viruses, providing treatment if necessary.

Yellowing of geranium leaves is an alarming sign. It is important to understand in time the cause of such a plant malaise. By carefully examining it and analyzing the conditions under which the pelargonium is kept, you can find what provoked such a reaction. The sooner the errors are corrected, the less damage will be caused to the geranium.